Tag Archives: painting

July 10th 1921 Bloody Sunday Wargame Scenario

July 10th 1921 the day before a truce between the Irish Republican Army and the Protestant Loyalists was a day of pure violence. 17 deaths and 2,000 people homeless as both sides attacked homes and businesses of the other.

Wargame

2 players

Wild West rules or mobster rules will work well

20 models per side, some with grenades or Molotov cocktails

Small Irish village or dense street on a 4×4 board.

Scenario

The IRA player should identify 2 buildings they are defending from the loyalists. The loyalists must use two explosives to destroy the building. The IRA wins if neither building is destroyed while the two sides draw if only one is destroyed. The loyalists should have a car to increase mobility.

Set-Up

Both sides indicate a building to dispatch their forces from. 4 fighters may enter per turn.

P3 Master Series Paints Review

I recently received the P3 Master Series Paint Set. My box opening is available here.

I have been working with the paints for about two weeks and have painted 30 or so models using the paints. I did a variety of models, such as Star Wars Legion, Reaper Bones, Warhammer, Marvel Crisis Protocol, Lord of the Rings, 3D prints, and some Flames of War. I used the paints in several ways, direct from the bottle, thinned, airbrushed, and as glazes. I also used wet blending, layering, edge highlights, base coating, etc. There were no scientific comparisons, color matching, or very professional items; I just wanted to give my thoughts on the set.

When I started my hobby, I was almost mystified by the quality of the P3 paints and how hard they were to get. Professional painters swore by the paints. I had to have the Kickstarter to see what all the fuss was about.

Conclusion

As an amateur painter, I did not think these paints were for me. I would pass on rebuying them. I think I could see the appeal for a professional painter, but I don’t have the skill to maximize their potential.

As I stated in the unboxing, there were no mixing mediums, primers, or washes, so I would expect to come with a set like this.

The paints themselves were pretty thick. I mixed every paint in the bottle using a vortex mixer for about 45 seconds before using. Many paints broke on my wet palette after 15 or 20 minutes. When the paints were thinned too much, instead of just being thin and needing a second layer, the brush strokes were obvious and hard to hide, especially when wet blending.

I tried about 70 of the colors included in the box. They all had a lovely, rich hue and good coverage when appropriately thinned. The ratio to thin the paints differed with every color, and it took four or five tries to get the correct ratio. Many of the paints finished with a semi-gloss sheen. I prefer my paints to finish matte, but I could be incorrectly using them.

The P3 paints are a step below Army Painter and Vallejo, but a step up from Reaper and two steps higher than Citadel. I would still consider Two Thin Coats the top brand for amateur use.

First Experience

I first tried a DND Reaper Bones model I had already primed. I wanted to see what the paints could do directly from the bottle—no thinning, no wet palette, just paint.

You can see the rich color and bright hues, but you can also see how thick the paint was when it came from the bottle and how it muddled many details.

My next model was a simple Aeldari Warlock. This time, I thinned the paints and used the black as a glaze for the bottom robe, which turned out nicely. The unthinned paint made a very nice edge highlight. You can see it on the satchel and the model’s chest piece. The metallic visor didn’t work well; it was gloppy and hard to control.

You can see the stark difference between the unthinned and thinned paint. I don’t see much difference between thinned and unthinned in my usual paints like Reaper, Armypainter Air, and Vallejo Air. This was a big step in seeing so much difference.

My next model was Fulgrim, also for the Aeldari. (I am in a league and picked Aeldari as my army.) I had already done some airbrush work on the model, which you can see below. For my P3 test, I simply did detailed work.

Below is the finished product after my detailed work. I won’t do bases until all models are ready.

The paints were difficult to control in tight areas unless the mix was perfect, especially in the face area. This is just something to be aware of as an amateur painter.

Marvel Crisis Protocol Lady Sif. Thinned paints, just base coated. I struggled to wet-blend the cloak. I will say I am not a good wet blender.

A zenithal primed phoenix guard captain.

It is crazy how terrible a paint job can look zoomed in. At 3′ distance, I was happy with this model. The paints at times flowed too well, notably the flesh color around the hands. The metallic bronze and the blue did not flow nearly as well. You can clearly see the unpainted areas of the model in the zoomed-in photo.

My last test was a fully airbrushed Incredible Hulk for Marvel Crisis Protocol.

When properly thinned and mixed with an airbrush flow improver, the paints performed better than expected. In fact, I think they performed better than Citadel paints. They gave a nice, even flow with minimal pixelation. The pigments covered nicely; overall, they created a nice model with sound effects.

You can clearly see the folds in the trousers and many details. Again, this model was fully airbrushed. I only used a brush for the eyes and the nails.

There are clearly defined shadows and highlights. My lines weren’t super clean. Again, I’m happy with how the paints were done with the airbrush. You can also see that there isn’t any spidering or splatter.

P3 Paints Master Set Acrylic Paints 100 Set Box Opening

The other day, I received a new set of paints from P3. I backed the Early Bird Kickstarter campaign, and purchasing the complete set cost me 256 BPD with shipping.

Conclusion

The P3 Master set is a decent paint set. It has an okay mix of colors. I think it’s a little heavy on the browns and potentially missing two reds, two greens, and a blue or two. You will be missing some items you would expect from Army Painter or Vallejo, where a brush, washes, thinner, primer, and paint mediums are often included with the set.

As I wrote this, I have not tested any of the paints, nor have I ever used P3 paints in the past. Based on reputation, they were the top paints on the market other than Coat d’ Arms. However, with Army Painter and Duncan Rhodes upping the game for paint quality, we will see if P3 can pass the test.

This set cost me 256 BPD, or $347 with shipping. The Army Painter Fanatic Wargamers costs about $300, and a Vallejo set with 76 paints costs $255, so this set is a little expensive. The Reaper set costs $154 and has 52 paints. It is cheaper than Dunca Rhodes Line, which costs $225 for 60 paints.

The Opening

I wanted to do a box opening of the Master Set. The box was a good value, but I haven’t tried the paints yet. That will take me a couple of weeks. I’d like to paint 10 or 12 models to see how they hold up and compare to other familiar brands like Vallejo, Duncan Rhodes, and Citadel.
There was one higher level on Kickstarter, which came with 10 paints and a paint stand. I didn’t feel like it was worth another $75.

The box is very colourful, and the back clearly shows the paints and colours you will get. I like the organization of the color chart on the back. However, the box itself felt a little flimsy, and I wouldn’t recommend it as a long-term storage solution.

As is typical with paint sets like this, when I opened the box, the paints were no longer in their plastic organizers.

Nothing was damaged or spilled. The box also contained some stickers and a couple of handy charts for paint mixtures and correct layering, which has become typical with brands like Reaper, Duncan Rhodes, and Army Painter.

Each paint label was solidly applied, and you could easily see the tone of the paint through the bottle. The mixing balls weren’t obvious except with some vigorous shaking.

There is a nice variety of colors in the box. However, there were no mixers, such as medium or thinner, primers, or shade paints. Those items are a bit of a miss and are expected in most paint sets I have purchased.

The box contained 12 metallics, 14 oranges and reds, 11 flesh tones, 6 violets, 12 Greens, 14 greys and whites, 12 blues, and a whopping 19 browns, for a total of 100 paints.

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 6 3d Printing

Very little can be said about 3D Printing that others have not written about. You can buy any form of terrain 3D printed that you can imagine. Want a scale model of Helms Deep? Boom, got it. Want a Kashyyk-style tree village, done. Want industrial acid basins and floating skull rocks? You can print them.

As wargamers, we have stopped asking if we can and started asking if we should.

I am not going to discuss how to 3D print. There are thousands of YouTube videos and guides on how to use a 3D printer and what 3D printer to buy. I will focus on my experiences with 3D printing and how that helps or hinders me as a gamer.

What to 3D Print

I personally own about ten 3D printers, two or three of which are functional at any one time. I know I am hard on printers, but I also don’t have the time, energy, or discipline to properly maintain such sensitive hardware.

I have found that the happiest part of printing is small prints of minor pieces. If I want to add a burned-out car, I can find a print for that. If I want some sandbag barricades, a few fences, or tank traps, I am happy to 3D print those.

I struggle with 3D printing because I want to do large setups. That Helms Deep scenery I talked about earlier? I hired it out. I am finding that by investing my time, buying the filament, and dealing with failures, I have forgotten or lost my passion for the project. I figured I would need $765 worth of filament, and I was able to order the scenery for $1000. Large scenery is better purchased. With the low barrier to entry in the market, you will always get a fair price.

If I need a specific building for a scenario—think Pavlov’s house for Stalingrad, or I did a Geonosian table—I am happy to 3D print it. However, I refused to 3D print my competitive 40k setup; it required over 140 prints, and I just didn’t have the energy.

How to Use 3D Prints

3d Prints are usually more durable than handcrafted or MDF items. The right 3D prints can also be stunning in detail. No matter how good the model is, a poor 3D print job tends to be unsalvageable.

I also think 3d prints must be painted to look acceptable on the table. I am well-versed in using rocks and some buildings in filament grey. They really just look like brown or grey lumps on the table. Get out your airbrush, throw on a basecoat, and then get a big drybrush and go over everything. Your models will pop on the table. You don’t have to do a bunch of details like shutters or drainpipes, just a basecoat and a drybrush.

My favorite use for 3D printing is to bring something to life. For the third time, I will refer to Helms Deep, an iconic location and one of the most significant cinematic battlefields ever. My crafting skills would be woefully insufficient to create such a majestic location. 3D printing fills that role. It is tangible and durable, and I can pack it away until next time.

Downfalls of 3D Printing

3D printing is the perfect solution for wargames. You can print exactly what you want. You can change the scale. With enough practice, you can even edit the models to your liking.

The biggest problem with 3D prints is space. The voluminous number of models available means I want all of them. I like Eastern European buildings, Western European buildings, American West buildings, South American buildings, Moon Landings, Elven buildings, and Orcish Camps, and I want them on different scales.

I literally own multiple warehouses and storage facilities and I am having trouble storing the amount of shit I have acquired for gaming. My addiction to buying 3D-printed scenery is a significant part of that problem. Looking at my most recent Etsy Orders, I have 3 full 40k or AOS terrain tables en route.

Each table typically requires a large tote to store, which requires labeling and even remembering exactly what is in that tote.

One major drawback of 3D printing is the layer lines. These layer lines will show up with a simple dry brush unless properly sanded or filled. To alleviate this, I prime most models with an automotive primer that fills most lines. It also fills in many details.

Other downfalls can include a lack of connection to said scenery. In our hobby, it is essential that we are happy with our participation. We will spend 1000 hours on a single army, painstakingly painting facial features and belts and using waterslide decals to place insignia. We take them to the table and create stories regarding the models, and we remember each and every figure. Crafting buildings from foam, measuring, and painting builds that connection. A 3D print doesn’t.

Finally, the environmental impacts of 3D printing are not insignificant. If you’re into that sort of thing, think of how much plastic can be created and wasted, the large spools, the spilled resin, and the unused models that we print because we can. That kind of workload has a measurable effect on the environment.

Overall

I would recommend 3D printing to all hobbyists in any hobby. The tool is far too versatile not to use. You no longer need a $2,000 machine with tons of software and custom-built parts. Most printers are plug-and-play. To be able to download and print a Japanese bunker in the Philippines one day and a trebuchet the next is invaluable for someone who plays a variety of games.

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 5

Feel free to look back at parts 1,2,3,4. Part 5 will focus on scatter terrain and other enhancements.

Scatter terrain is simply items scattered about the battlefield that add flair but not much to gameplay.

Scatter terrain has a special place in my wargaming soul. For photo-realistic games, scatter terrain is crucial to what we do as gamers. Why would we have a ruined structure with no rubble around its base? A WWII Battlefield with no impact craters? Fences and hedges in the Civil War and European battlefields.

The other aspect of scatter terrain is how it impacts gameplay. In 40k, a Land Raider can’t end its turn on top of a piece of terrain. If we add too much scatter, the game stops working. The same works for your rank and flank games; a fence is hell when dealing with a movement tray.

Why Use Scatter Terrain

As challenging as the scattered terrain is, it looks good on the table. Broken bits of concrete with rebar sticking out, damaged furniture, burned-out cars, and an upturned cart with a dead horse are all staples in cinematography. If you want a gorgeous table, scatter terrain is a must.

Scatter is also amazing in small skirmish games. A couch in the middle of the street becomes a cover piece in Bolt Action. Marvel Crisis Protocol lives or dies on scatter terrain pieces. A new flair is added to a caved-in ceiling on a boarding action board.

I swear by adding telephone poles and street signs to any battlefield. It just adds that extra something.

Where not to Use Scatter

Any large-scale wargame designed to be more competitive struggles with a ton of scatter added. Even less competitive but still large-scale don’t work well. Flames of War, Genera D Armee, Across a Deadly Field, DBMM, The Old World, Conquest, Age of Sigmar, and 40k don’t need scatter terrain. Stick with what the rules call for.

Best Types of Scatter

You really have to think about how you want your game to feel. Scatter that doesn’t interfere, but also has to have a purpose. Hay bales and wood piles provide cover. The same with burned-out cars. Piles of bricks just get in the way and are difficult to clean up post-game. Small, fully-painted flower gardens look nice, but don’t add to gameplay. However, a concrete sidewalk next to a city street in a modern zombie game adds so much to the feel of your table and doesn’t hinder gameplay in the slightest.

Street signs can be removed if hindering, but they look nice for photos.

My ultimate pick for scatter terrain is stuff that can be easily set up and cleaned up.

I generally only set a table for two or at most three games. I have full respect for players who go all out and spend 100 hours creating a custom table for Lord of the Rings or World War Z or whatever else. Every piece of terrain and scatter is meticulously painted, and the photo ends up in some magazine.

That’s not me. I want a functional table to play on that looks nice. End of story. If you are the type of player who wants a photoshoot-quality table, this isn’t the best guide for you. If you just want to level up your table from bleh to meh. Take my advice.

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 3

Now that you have played a few games, are tired of stacks of books and hardboard cutouts, and want to take the next step, I still don’t recommend breaking the bank; let’s look at budget starter terrain.

Most of this terrain will come pre-painted, limiting your upfront time and money investment. This gives you more time for gaming.

My #1 recommendation will always be aquarium terrain.

Rocks, ruins, castles, and plants—all for less than you will spend on two or three paint bottles. Ten or so good pieces will give a very nice-looking 6×4 table with interesting and varied terrain. The biggest con is that aquarium terrain is rarely thematic or scales with the models on the table. (table cost $140)

My following recommendation is to go take a walk. Find some public property along a riverbank or in the woods, grab 10 or 12 interesting rocks/pinecones/logs, and place them on a table. This terrain setup can actually be very thematic and fit your table. (table cost $0)

Another budget item is to visit thrift shops and church stores and look for Christmas village items. This is a great way to get a handful of buildings, perhaps a bridge, and some trees.

The terrain tends to look okay. Your battles can be pretty interesting, and you can even do fun missions, such as escorting Rudolph to the flying sleigh. The biggest downside to Christmas terrain is that it is primarily sealed, and your troops cannot occupy the buildings. (table cost $30-$200)

Trees for Christmas villages could be a category of their own. Often, these are the only trees I use. They look far better than I can make, and they fit the scale wonderfully.

My final recommendation would be to buy model railroad building kits.

Many buildings can be had for $15 or less. You can paint them however you like. They are very accurate to scale if you buy the correct scale. There are endless possibilities. My most significant downside to model railway items is there is a time investment and a hobby side. Most buildings require assembly and painting. The other con is durability. The model railway is for building models that sit and look pretty, not for gaming with frequent movement and other forms of abuse. (table cost $200-$400)

That is just a quick look at the options for terrain on a budget, for a burgeoning wargame. Tune in next time for information on gaming mats and other 2d terrain.

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 2

You have played a few games, enjoy the hobby, and want to improve your tables.

Hooray. Terrain, as I will say, 100 times makes the game better. It is not required, but it sure is fun.

At this stage, I will avoid discussing 3D printing. I know what is out there and how amazing it is, but we are beginning hobbyists.

A Note on Scale

Wargames can use a variety of scales. Scale is determined by the height of a figure from the bottom of its feet to eye level. Warhammer models are about 32mm, so they are 32mm scale. Bolt Action is closer to 28 mm, while Marvel Crisis Protocol is 40mm. (aka Captain America is 40mm from his feet to his eye)

Scale matters when it comes to terrain. If a standard rifleman can stand, look over a building, and shoot, it detracts from the immersion. Consider this if you make or buy your own terrain. The type of game you are playing also matters. Epic Battles from Warlord games is about 10mm scale, designed for large, medieval conflicts with a couple thousand figures on the table. Narrow streets and cramped buildings wouldn’t be fun to play on.

The same can be said for Bolt Action, a 28mm WW2 game. The average army has about 30 figures and a vehicle. This game plays much better with more terrain, buildings of different heights, etc. It does not play well on an open plain with a small river.

If purchased for Epic Battles, the same river might be the width of a battalion, 150 or so yards across. In Bolt action, that same battalion is shorter than a typical Tiger Tank and little more than a stream.

It’s just something to think about. Most players I know won’t care if the house is about the same size as a Landraider or if their noble knight is just a little bigger than the door he is guarding.

What Terrain do I need?

This entirely depends on what game you are playing. Rivers don’t make sense if you play Battlefleet Gothic, a game in outer space. Like Grimdark Gothic ruins don’t make sense in the Wild West.

I always recommend starting with the basics. Roads are universal, and scale doesn’t matter much. You can buy some fabric from a local store and cut them out yourself (the cheapest option). You can paint and use cardboard, buy the neoprene roads from Amazon (my top choice), or even look at premium custom-made or 3D-printed options.

The entire above paragraph can also be said about rivers. Add a bridge, and you can have an exciting engagement. Most games allow faster travel along roads, and rivers are always an effective barrier or defensive structure.

Next time, I will add some vegetation; hedgerows and trees are universal among the wargames I played. Star Wars Legion, Flames of War, and Napoleonic all need some vegetation. Adding cover and breaking the line of sight always looks good. I have some expensive custom-crafted trees. I prefer trees for your Christmas village or the bulk boxes of fake trees you can buy on Amazon.

Hedges have always seemed a little trickier. These matter for scale, as a soldier shouldn’t be able to see over one, but a vehicle or mounted knight should. They are also a little harder to find. My favorites are plastic and 3D printing, but you can also find premade ones on Etsy. If you want to try making your own, a few YouTube videos and a trip to a craft store should yield good results.

I also think stone walls are reasonably universal. I use mine in dozens of games; they never go to waste. I buy mine on Etsy, but Amazon and 3d print shops also yield good results.

More Specific Terrain

At last count, I have armies for 47 different miniature wargames. I strive to make my terrain as universal as possible. I don’t add Soviet propaganda to my 15 mm buildings because I also used them in the Napoleonic and Ancient periods. If you’re just starting out, I recommend building one table first.

When building a table, look below at the types of games and terrain needed. Don’t worry about walls, fences, or many buildings if you are playing 15 mm Napoleonics with 400 figures on the table. Instead, focus on hills, fields, and forests. If you bought a kill team and want to expand into an entire 40k army, a grimdark ruin (3d print please) with several floors and bits of scatter is more thematic.

As always, buildings and vegetation are unnecessary if you are playing a space game like Billion Suns or a water game like Black Seas.

Types of Games

I classify boots-on-the-ground Wargames into four categories: Squad Actions (10-14 Figures), Skirmishes (20-50 Figures), Army Actions (100 figures plus), and ranked soldiers. There are other categories for naval, space, and airplanes, but that’s how I do it for boots-on-the-ground.

I know you may balk at this, but think: A squad of 10 men may fight over a house, a platoon of 60 men may fight over a compound, large structure, hill, or bridge, and an army will fight over a town or range of hills.

In squad actions, scatter terrain is vital. Broken furniture, light poles, crates, rubble, craters, computer terminals, and market stalls. When you only have 10 figures on the table, you can take your time to enhance some of the details. It generally leads to much more interesting games.

In skirmish games (think Age of Sigmar), you have a force of units on the table and generally move a few models around as a unit. No one would consider your 40-man army a full invasion force, but they look great on the table and strike a nice balance of hobby and playtime. Scatter is less critical here than elevation and line of sight. It rarely comes into play and is often just inconvenient.

In my book, army actions are typically reserved for historical events. I rarely consider using figures larger than 15mm in an army action game. This is when actual land features start to play: hills that hold entire battalions and dozens of cannons. A single fence or wall is inconsequential; the layout is more important. A forest that hides 3,000 troops, a river you can’t just walk across. A hill is several hundred feet high that overlooks a large camp. These are the types of terrain you should be working on. Unfortunately, most of these need to be crafted.

Finally, there are rank-and-file games: Warhammer Fantasy Battles, A Song of Ice and Fire, Kings of War, and Conquest. They want to act like army games, have the model counts of skirmish games, and are exceptionally difficult to move around. I treat them like army games, but I also push for utterly flat terrain. It doesn’t look as nice, but functionality is most important for the game’s playing.

Conclusion

Hopefully, this guide will help. Stay tuned for part 3.

Quick and Dirty Tyranid Terrain Project

Today, I am sharing some terrain for my Tyranid Escalation League. I purchased a ton of terrain from Etsy and was delighted. It has great details and functions nicely in a game.

Due to procrastination, I only had about 2 hours of free time where I would be able to get this terrain ready for the tabletop. I decided to just go for it. I fully painted this terrain using rattle cans and nothing else in about 90 minutes.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1553733003/tyranid-scatter-terrain-scenery-bundle?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1400349576/the-hive-alien-scenery-terrain-for-war?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1417470104/alien-infested-ruins-tabletop-terrain?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1803261885/the-hive-kill-team-set-3d-printed-alien?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1684087149/tulipa-evolved-infestation-tabletop?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1669911754/tulipa-the-infested-world-tabletop?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/927375461/alien-hive-army-capillary-spore-stack?ref=yr_purchases
The terrain pictured for the painting is the Alien-infested Ruins and the Tulipa, the Infested World.

The prints are nicely done, and I recommend any of the sellers listed above.

I started with a black primer. I usually splurge for auto-primer when I prep 3D prints. Auto primers fill the gaps made from traditional 3D printing very nicely. All the other paints were simple rattle-can Rustoleum products.

I focused on the buildings first.

The next step was a dusting of winter grey.

Followed up by a decently large spray of Smokey Beige.

Next, I went to work on the various Tyranid pieces.

They get a solid coat of Grape and then a dusting of French Lilac.

I finished with a splash of fire orange and sun yellow, just for some pop.

I did the same thing with the Tyranid pieces attached to the buildings.

Here is the finished set on a table. I was really pleased, given how much time I took. I will maybe airbrush some of the windows and floors to break them up and potentially add a bit of weathering grime. It looks better than basic grey, and I hope this lesson shows that terrain does not need to be an hours-long endeavor. The table is 8′ by 30″, and you can see it has decent coverage.

The Big buildings are also modular.

Bonereapers Painting Project

My local gaming store wanted us to do an Age of Sigmar league. One of my goals for the year was to get more Sigmar models on the table and painted. This was a prime opportunity to move on from some of my pile of shame. Many of my armies have 500-1000 points; some even have 2k points. The Bonereapers were 100% grey.

This project has been fun to work on. I plan to bring a different 2k list for each round. Just to give me more opportunity to fill out the model selection.

All models started with a prime of Vallejo Primer German Red Brown. I then zenithaled with a desert tan.

I am happy so far. I wanted to follow Kenny Bouche and take it up to 11 with the airbrush. After one batch of Deathriders, I decided that the bone didn’t pop enough. So, I took all the bone I could and mixed half desert tan and half white to brighten the effect. After that, I just applied a dab of white ink to most of the models from directly above.

You can see a little difference here where I hit the models with the white vs. just leaving them desert tan.

Many of the models have cloth that hangs off the saddle or dangles between their legs. I wanted a contrasting color but didn’t want to spend much time on it, so I used contrast paint Aeldari Emerald with a dry brush of Talisman Green.

Between the bones, I just dabbed a bit of Citadel Nihil Oxide. It’s the same color on my night haunt, and I appreciated the spooky effect.

I wanted to take my time on the purple. I haven’t ever enjoyed layering or edge highlighting and these seemed like lovely models to try it on. All purple used the Two Thin Coats. Shadow Von Evil Purple, mid-tones were Emperors Purple and edged using Spectral Purple. The colors gave a nice metallic finish.

For basing I wanted the models to look like they were running through a meadow.

Simple mud texture paste, some flowers and cork rocks and flocked with a strong green grass. The only model I didn’t do this for was Nagash. I took a circle around his model and used a dead flock, and then on the edges of the circle, it was green.

Very happy with Katakros.

This image shows the difference the white highlight made on the bones. Look at the cavalry at the top right.

On the crawlers, I actually washed the skeletons that were manning the catapult just to give them an obviously different color, and help them stand out.

The endless spells were 100% airbrushed. Not sure of the recipe, but absolutely love how they turned out.

Tyranid Painting Project

In my 40k escalation league, I decided to pick Tyranids. I had a nice collection I had never brought to the tabletop, and it seemed like an enjoyable force to break out. This is an escalation league.

Overall, I am happy with the force and will probably expand. One thing I learned is that just because airbrushing is faster does not mean it is the best way forward.

To start, I primed all the models with Vallejo Primer Desert Tan.

My most time-consuming step was a mostly red oil wash with a drop of blue. I then wiped off using sponges.

I like the alien feel; it brought out most of the details I sought.

I then painted the caprice armor with Huge Miniatures Green Teal. I was delighted.

If you look closely, I airbrushed the Green Teal on the Exocrine and Maleceptor on the left, compared to the Exocrine and most of the gargoyles that I hand-brushed. I like the hand-painted look more and will forgo airbrushing those pieces in the future.

I painted most of the spikes and nails with Celestium Blue contrast paint. Then, I dry-brushed it with Reaper Mint Green. The tentacles were overbrushed with Vallejo Model Color green-grey.

The look is very alien and nasty, very tyranid-like.

I didn’t take a good picture of the basing, but I wanted it very simple. Volcanic Crackle Paste, Red marble mosaic pieces, snowballs, and clover.