P3 Master Series Paints Review

I recently received the P3 Master Series Paint Set. My box opening is available here.

I have been working with the paints for about two weeks and have painted 30 or so models using the paints. I did a variety of models, such as Star Wars Legion, Reaper Bones, Warhammer, Marvel Crisis Protocol, Lord of the Rings, 3D prints, and some Flames of War. I used the paints in several ways, direct from the bottle, thinned, airbrushed, and as glazes. I also used wet blending, layering, edge highlights, base coating, etc. There were no scientific comparisons, color matching, or very professional items; I just wanted to give my thoughts on the set.

When I started my hobby, I was almost mystified by the quality of the P3 paints and how hard they were to get. Professional painters swore by the paints. I had to have the Kickstarter to see what all the fuss was about.

Conclusion

As an amateur painter, I did not think these paints were for me. I would pass on rebuying them. I think I could see the appeal for a professional painter, but I don’t have the skill to maximize their potential.

As I stated in the unboxing, there were no mixing mediums, primers, or washes, so I would expect to come with a set like this.

The paints themselves were pretty thick. I mixed every paint in the bottle using a vortex mixer for about 45 seconds before using. Many paints broke on my wet palette after 15 or 20 minutes. When the paints were thinned too much, instead of just being thin and needing a second layer, the brush strokes were obvious and hard to hide, especially when wet blending.

I tried about 70 of the colors included in the box. They all had a lovely, rich hue and good coverage when appropriately thinned. The ratio to thin the paints differed with every color, and it took four or five tries to get the correct ratio. Many of the paints finished with a semi-gloss sheen. I prefer my paints to finish matte, but I could be incorrectly using them.

The P3 paints are a step below Army Painter and Vallejo, but a step up from Reaper and two steps higher than Citadel. I would still consider Two Thin Coats the top brand for amateur use.

First Experience

I first tried a DND Reaper Bones model I had already primed. I wanted to see what the paints could do directly from the bottle—no thinning, no wet palette, just paint.

You can see the rich color and bright hues, but you can also see how thick the paint was when it came from the bottle and how it muddled many details.

My next model was a simple Aeldari Warlock. This time, I thinned the paints and used the black as a glaze for the bottom robe, which turned out nicely. The unthinned paint made a very nice edge highlight. You can see it on the satchel and the model’s chest piece. The metallic visor didn’t work well; it was gloppy and hard to control.

You can see the stark difference between the unthinned and thinned paint. I don’t see much difference between thinned and unthinned in my usual paints like Reaper, Armypainter Air, and Vallejo Air. This was a big step in seeing so much difference.

My next model was Fulgrim, also for the Aeldari. (I am in a league and picked Aeldari as my army.) I had already done some airbrush work on the model, which you can see below. For my P3 test, I simply did detailed work.

Below is the finished product after my detailed work. I won’t do bases until all models are ready.

The paints were difficult to control in tight areas unless the mix was perfect, especially in the face area. This is just something to be aware of as an amateur painter.

Marvel Crisis Protocol Lady Sif. Thinned paints, just base coated. I struggled to wet-blend the cloak. I will say I am not a good wet blender.

A zenithal primed phoenix guard captain.

It is crazy how terrible a paint job can look zoomed in. At 3′ distance, I was happy with this model. The paints at times flowed too well, notably the flesh color around the hands. The metallic bronze and the blue did not flow nearly as well. You can clearly see the unpainted areas of the model in the zoomed-in photo.

My last test was a fully airbrushed Incredible Hulk for Marvel Crisis Protocol.

When properly thinned and mixed with an airbrush flow improver, the paints performed better than expected. In fact, I think they performed better than Citadel paints. They gave a nice, even flow with minimal pixelation. The pigments covered nicely; overall, they created a nice model with sound effects.

You can clearly see the folds in the trousers and many details. Again, this model was fully airbrushed. I only used a brush for the eyes and the nails.

There are clearly defined shadows and highlights. My lines weren’t super clean. Again, I’m happy with how the paints were done with the airbrush. You can also see that there isn’t any spidering or splatter.

P3 Paints Master Set Acrylic Paints 100 Set Box Opening

The other day, I received a new set of paints from P3. I backed the Early Bird Kickstarter campaign, and purchasing the complete set cost me 256 BPD with shipping.

Conclusion

The P3 Master set is a decent paint set. It has an okay mix of colors. I think it’s a little heavy on the browns and potentially missing two reds, two greens, and a blue or two. You will be missing some items you would expect from Army Painter or Vallejo, where a brush, washes, thinner, primer, and paint mediums are often included with the set.

As I wrote this, I have not tested any of the paints, nor have I ever used P3 paints in the past. Based on reputation, they were the top paints on the market other than Coat d’ Arms. However, with Army Painter and Duncan Rhodes upping the game for paint quality, we will see if P3 can pass the test.

This set cost me 256 BPD, or $347 with shipping. The Army Painter Fanatic Wargamers costs about $300, and a Vallejo set with 76 paints costs $255, so this set is a little expensive. The Reaper set costs $154 and has 52 paints. It is cheaper than Dunca Rhodes Line, which costs $225 for 60 paints.

The Opening

I wanted to do a box opening of the Master Set. The box was a good value, but I haven’t tried the paints yet. That will take me a couple of weeks. I’d like to paint 10 or 12 models to see how they hold up and compare to other familiar brands like Vallejo, Duncan Rhodes, and Citadel.
There was one higher level on Kickstarter, which came with 10 paints and a paint stand. I didn’t feel like it was worth another $75.

The box is very colourful, and the back clearly shows the paints and colours you will get. I like the organization of the color chart on the back. However, the box itself felt a little flimsy, and I wouldn’t recommend it as a long-term storage solution.

As is typical with paint sets like this, when I opened the box, the paints were no longer in their plastic organizers.

Nothing was damaged or spilled. The box also contained some stickers and a couple of handy charts for paint mixtures and correct layering, which has become typical with brands like Reaper, Duncan Rhodes, and Army Painter.

Each paint label was solidly applied, and you could easily see the tone of the paint through the bottle. The mixing balls weren’t obvious except with some vigorous shaking.

There is a nice variety of colors in the box. However, there were no mixers, such as medium or thinner, primers, or shade paints. Those items are a bit of a miss and are expected in most paint sets I have purchased.

The box contained 12 metallics, 14 oranges and reds, 11 flesh tones, 6 violets, 12 Greens, 14 greys and whites, 12 blues, and a whopping 19 browns, for a total of 100 paints.

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 8 (Final Part)

For the first 7 parts of this series, click here.

Today, I want to discuss the most expensive aspect of wargame terrain. Premium options. These come in several flavors.

Overall, I have enjoyed writing this series. If you want more in-depth reviews of any products, let me know.

Games Workshop Kits

Why am I putting GW kits here? I think they are overpriced. They look absolutely stunning on the tabletop, but the amount of detail that goes into a simple GW kit you have to paint is astounding. Price per item, GW is the worst option.

The simple GW landing pad, as simple as it gets, is $80. The same terrain piece can be 3D printed from Etsy or another source and shipped to you for $30. GW has to be careful or they will price themselves out of the hobby altogether.

Enough on my rant now, to other premium options I actually use.

Rampart Terrain

Instead of buying overpriced GW crap, I love using the fully modular Rampart terrain system. It can be magnetized, has nearly as much detail as GW kits, and is far more functional. The biggest challenge with Rampart is using your imagination to create amazing builds.

Kallistra

You can’t go wrong with the Kallistra system for creating historical battle boards. It’s a custom hex battlefield with numerous surface types: hills, mountains, rivers, craters, roads, and bridges. I use Kallistra hexes in most of my historical conflicts and am happy to do so. I have an epic D-Day battle planned one day, and Kallistra Terrain will be the star.

Dwarven-Forge

It is the cream of the crop for terrain. Its modularity is fantastic, and it is stunning on the table. However, I can’t recommend it for most wargames. The scale is just a little off. It is wildly expensive. I have, I think, every set they ever produced. I love my Dwarven Forge. Price is getting to be an issue with their latest sets.

Green Leaf Terrain

A custom terrain building from Canada. I have personally commissioned 5 projects from Green Leaf. His creations are often shown on MiniWargaming. They are some of the best custom terrain set-ups around. Send him a project and he will make something special.

Table-Top World

It’s not as diverse as some of the other options. The creators at Tabletop World put together some stunning resin pieces. Unfortunately, they are no longer producing models. If you can find them, buy them.

Custom Etsy Creators

The rise of Etsy has been huge for the wargaming hobby. I use Etsy for many of my unique pieces. You can spend as much or as little as you want. You can acquire whatever you want. It also helps small hobbyists like ourselves. Just be aware that sometimes what is sold isn’t what you expected.

Gamemat EU

I only have one set from these guys, but they are highly regarded and reviewed.

Tabletop Titans

The first of two pop-up terrain options. I prefer Acidhouse for its modularity. But there is a place for a fully functional battlefield in a few seconds that packs beneath a bed. I personally own every single set and enjoy using them on the table.

Acid House Terrain

My other flatpack option for wargame terrain. It is highly modular, but durability can be questionable. I think I own every set they have ever produced.

Tenfold Dungeon

Tenfold has decent terrain for Dnd or Boarding actions. I wouldn’t build a table with it, though.

Up-Zone

My final option for a pop-up terrain. It’s fine, just not special.

Pre-Painted MDF

One premium option I don’t like to use, but I acknowledge is a popular item, is pre-painted MDF terrain. I find MDF finicky and fragile.

https://www.deepcutstudio.com/product-category/scenery/
https://blacksitestudio.com/collections/mdf-terrain?srsltid=AfmBOooOCvpg6VhRo6SWBtgnIrfW2Ry17oeULgyOcQpKcGNNUBxfXrrX
https://store.frontlinegaming.org/collections/flg-full-color-terrain?srsltid=AfmBOoqBOqrofvrbrnTbQTT8ORmSpMQcylLIxBkG-V6a_ruFBsnx-OX4

A Comprehensive Guide to Wargame Terrain Part 5

Feel free to look back at parts 1,2,3,4. Part 5 will focus on scatter terrain and other enhancements.

Scatter terrain is simply items scattered about the battlefield that add flair but not much to gameplay.

Scatter terrain has a special place in my wargaming soul. For photo-realistic games, scatter terrain is crucial to what we do as gamers. Why would we have a ruined structure with no rubble around its base? A WWII Battlefield with no impact craters? Fences and hedges in the Civil War and European battlefields.

The other aspect of scatter terrain is how it impacts gameplay. In 40k, a Land Raider can’t end its turn on top of a piece of terrain. If we add too much scatter, the game stops working. The same works for your rank and flank games; a fence is hell when dealing with a movement tray.

Why Use Scatter Terrain

As challenging as the scattered terrain is, it looks good on the table. Broken bits of concrete with rebar sticking out, damaged furniture, burned-out cars, and an upturned cart with a dead horse are all staples in cinematography. If you want a gorgeous table, scatter terrain is a must.

Scatter is also amazing in small skirmish games. A couch in the middle of the street becomes a cover piece in Bolt Action. Marvel Crisis Protocol lives or dies on scatter terrain pieces. A new flair is added to a caved-in ceiling on a boarding action board.

I swear by adding telephone poles and street signs to any battlefield. It just adds that extra something.

Where not to Use Scatter

Any large-scale wargame designed to be more competitive struggles with a ton of scatter added. Even less competitive but still large-scale don’t work well. Flames of War, Genera D Armee, Across a Deadly Field, DBMM, The Old World, Conquest, Age of Sigmar, and 40k don’t need scatter terrain. Stick with what the rules call for.

Best Types of Scatter

You really have to think about how you want your game to feel. Scatter that doesn’t interfere, but also has to have a purpose. Hay bales and wood piles provide cover. The same with burned-out cars. Piles of bricks just get in the way and are difficult to clean up post-game. Small, fully-painted flower gardens look nice, but don’t add to gameplay. However, a concrete sidewalk next to a city street in a modern zombie game adds so much to the feel of your table and doesn’t hinder gameplay in the slightest.

Street signs can be removed if hindering, but they look nice for photos.

My ultimate pick for scatter terrain is stuff that can be easily set up and cleaned up.

I generally only set a table for two or at most three games. I have full respect for players who go all out and spend 100 hours creating a custom table for Lord of the Rings or World War Z or whatever else. Every piece of terrain and scatter is meticulously painted, and the photo ends up in some magazine.

That’s not me. I want a functional table to play on that looks nice. End of story. If you are the type of player who wants a photoshoot-quality table, this isn’t the best guide for you. If you just want to level up your table from bleh to meh. Take my advice.

AOS Leage Match 3 Bonereapers vs Ogors

This weekend, I played my 3rd league match using the Ossiarch Bonereapers. I lost miserably.

Conclusions
– Like any game, a tuned list generally performs better than a list full of things
– If you want to be competitive, you need board control
– Running and hiding is acceptable
– Knowing thy enemy is important

Our lists are as follows.

BonereapersOgors
Nagash900Tyrant160
Deathriders x3600Leadbelchers150
Mortisan Ossifactor110Gluttons Reinforced480
Morghast Archai270Butcher150
Mortek Guard120Ironblaster200
Frostlord on Stonehorn320
Mounfang Pack (reinforced)
360
Mounrfang Pack180

My opponent was very aggressive and recklessly rushed forth with a small mournfang pack to take one of our neutral objectives.

I quickly destroyed this unit and thought that the lower side of the board would be clear. I underestimated the swiftness of his units. I also thought my morghasts and more guard would be able to hold a stronger line than they actually did.

Turn 2 I pulled back a little to stay out of charge range while pushing my cavalry up the other side. Nagash was shooting off his 9 spells every turn.

Turn 3 is where I lost the game. Nagash had to make a 5-inch charge against my opponent’s Stonehorn, and I missed. I also allowed him to charge my morghasts and mortek guard, destroying them. Really just all-around lousy play. I missed several abilities, such as Nagash being able to heal units. I poorly charged my cavalry and morghasts allowing his stonehorn to countercharge, damage the morghasts, and still not be in combat.

At the start of turn 4, I did plan on conceding. I had a chance, maybe with a double turn, but the double turn did not happen. He killed every unit except Nagash. There was just zero chance of me catching up. Nagash was only in charge range of his lead belchers and gluttons, and there was no way I was doing 40 damage there.

Quick and Dirty Tyranid Terrain Project

Today, I am sharing some terrain for my Tyranid Escalation League. I purchased a ton of terrain from Etsy and was delighted. It has great details and functions nicely in a game.

Due to procrastination, I only had about 2 hours of free time where I would be able to get this terrain ready for the tabletop. I decided to just go for it. I fully painted this terrain using rattle cans and nothing else in about 90 minutes.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1553733003/tyranid-scatter-terrain-scenery-bundle?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1400349576/the-hive-alien-scenery-terrain-for-war?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1417470104/alien-infested-ruins-tabletop-terrain?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1803261885/the-hive-kill-team-set-3d-printed-alien?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1684087149/tulipa-evolved-infestation-tabletop?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1669911754/tulipa-the-infested-world-tabletop?ref=yr_purchases
https://www.etsy.com/listing/927375461/alien-hive-army-capillary-spore-stack?ref=yr_purchases
The terrain pictured for the painting is the Alien-infested Ruins and the Tulipa, the Infested World.

The prints are nicely done, and I recommend any of the sellers listed above.

I started with a black primer. I usually splurge for auto-primer when I prep 3D prints. Auto primers fill the gaps made from traditional 3D printing very nicely. All the other paints were simple rattle-can Rustoleum products.

I focused on the buildings first.

The next step was a dusting of winter grey.

Followed up by a decently large spray of Smokey Beige.

Next, I went to work on the various Tyranid pieces.

They get a solid coat of Grape and then a dusting of French Lilac.

I finished with a splash of fire orange and sun yellow, just for some pop.

I did the same thing with the Tyranid pieces attached to the buildings.

Here is the finished set on a table. I was really pleased, given how much time I took. I will maybe airbrush some of the windows and floors to break them up and potentially add a bit of weathering grime. It looks better than basic grey, and I hope this lesson shows that terrain does not need to be an hours-long endeavor. The table is 8′ by 30″, and you can see it has decent coverage.

The Big buildings are also modular.

Tyranid Painting Project

In my 40k escalation league, I decided to pick Tyranids. I had a nice collection I had never brought to the tabletop, and it seemed like an enjoyable force to break out. This is an escalation league.

Overall, I am happy with the force and will probably expand. One thing I learned is that just because airbrushing is faster does not mean it is the best way forward.

To start, I primed all the models with Vallejo Primer Desert Tan.

My most time-consuming step was a mostly red oil wash with a drop of blue. I then wiped off using sponges.

I like the alien feel; it brought out most of the details I sought.

I then painted the caprice armor with Huge Miniatures Green Teal. I was delighted.

If you look closely, I airbrushed the Green Teal on the Exocrine and Maleceptor on the left, compared to the Exocrine and most of the gargoyles that I hand-brushed. I like the hand-painted look more and will forgo airbrushing those pieces in the future.

I painted most of the spikes and nails with Celestium Blue contrast paint. Then, I dry-brushed it with Reaper Mint Green. The tentacles were overbrushed with Vallejo Model Color green-grey.

The look is very alien and nasty, very tyranid-like.

I didn’t take a good picture of the basing, but I wanted it very simple. Volcanic Crackle Paste, Red marble mosaic pieces, snowballs, and clover.

2024 Year in Review

Wow, has it really been 2 months since I posted last. I have not been idle. Just lazy on the writing front. Sometimes, I think I get anxious about not doing what I am supposed to have done, and then I fall further behind. I will make several posts showcasing my accomplishments over the last two months. A half a dozen games and a fully painted Tyrranid list.

My resolutions for 2024 were;

  1. Complete Horus Heresey Word Bearers Army
  2.  Complete through scenario 15 of the Stalingrad campaign
  3.  Complete a Warhammer Fantasy Army, either high elves or Beastmen
  4.  Inventory my terrain
  5.  Spend less money and focus more on 3d printing
  6.  Paint 6 Skirmish forces, either Warcry, Necromunda, Carnivale, Malifauxe, Kill Team, etc. 6 of them.
  7.  100 Blog Posts

I completed the Word Bearers Army with 3500+ points. I still have quite a bit of work to do. I need two more Terminator squads, another couple of dreadnaughts, and new tanks.

I did not even get close to scenario 15. In fact, I only got to 5. I gave up on this as, quite frankly, I just got bored with it. As a plus, I painted 2k points of Soviets and 1500 points of Germans.

I completed a fantasy army, which consisted of the dwarves rather than the high elves, but it was completed.

My terrain was inventoried, kinda, no, not really, I did look at what I have.

However, I did spend less money; I did not do more 3d printing. This year should be better for 3d printing. I am getting much better at it, and the new printer is fantastic. I need to do a review.

I painted 4 skirmish forces. One Blood Bowl Team, One Marvel Crisis Protocol Group, 10ish Harry Potter Figures, and One Warcry Warband.

100 Blog Posts, 33%, are not good but not bad. Considering there were 4 months with zero posts. It seems a weekly post would be more effective.

Other Things
Complete the Black Seas ships (thank you, Kevin Bush)
Completed armies for the 100 Years war
Completed Mancrusher Gargants

How to improve;

I was actually more successful than I thought I would be. The thought this weekend of completing the review was it would be abysmal. Instead, I was a little encouraged.

Review My Goals
It seems like I tend to get bored quickly with a project. The Stalingrad project, for example, was exciting for a few weeks, then a chore for a few more weeks, then a burden. Hobbying should never be a burden. If I had looked at the list of hobby goals, I would have grabbed a Kill-Team, Warband, or other item and given myself a break.

Understanding Limits
I just don’t get enough hobbying done in a week to get enough content for two posts. I may do one battle every two weeks and complete one or two units every two weeks. People don’t care much about my thoughts, but I could review more products. This year, 50 posts seem more reasonable.

Also, to understand my limits, I must understand my attention span. I have three rulesets I have been working on for various games and a dozen campaign and army ideas; traversing from one to another will be necessary.

Have Fun

This hobby should not be a chore or a burden. If I am not having fun, do something enjoyable.

Until 2025.

Horus Heresey and Stalingrad 2

Another battle in the books.
Overall, I was impressed by how much closer this one came out. If the Contemptor for the defending Word Bearers does not roll five consecutive failed saves to become destroyed. I actually think the Word Bearers could have pulled it out. Instead, the Ravenguard cruised to victory but with heavy losses. The scenario played much more evenly than in the Bolt Action version. An additional 500 points to the Word Bearers would have balanced the scenario perfectly. I have another lopsided scenario coming in the next couple of weeks, which will be interesting.

Battle Rules

This is another river crossing scenario. This time, the defenders are dug in and prepared for the enemy. However, the enemy has numerical and technological superiority. One thing that Horus Heresey plays much better at than Bolt Action is the addition of flying units.

The Ravenguard are attempting to cross into the city. The Word Bearers are holding. Teams get 1 VP for each unit destroyed and 1 VP for each unit on the Word Bearer side of the river.


Army Lists

Word Bearers1250
Legion Cataphractii Praetor135
Contemptor Talon w/ Graivtron Gun and Melta195
Mhara Gal Dreadnought240
Terminator Cataphractii (6)210
Despoiler Squad100
Despoiler Squad100
Legion Avenger Strike Fighter150
Predator120
Predators are the best tanks. The Strike Fighter punched well above its weight. The despoilers were used to fall back and shoot. The Mhara Gal was useless.
Ravenguard2500
Strike Captain Alvarex Maun/ Command and Drop Pod260
2x Contemptor Dreadnought with Graviton Gun400
Destroyer Assault Squad250
Rapier Battery65
Assault Squad145
Assault Squad145
Tactical Squad100
Dark Furies150
Javelin Squadron x3270
Fire Raptor Gunship315
Basilisk Squadron200
Vindicator Squadron x2245
I was delighted with the Rapier Battery. The Dark Furies did work to remove the dreadnought, but the Fire Raptor didn’t do much. Vindicators shouldn’t have been brought based on their range; I don’t think I even fired with them.

Set-Up

We are on a 4×4 Table with an impassible river directly down the middle. There are heavy woods on the Ravenguard side with some hills. There are hills and some fortifications on the Word Bearer’s side.

Deployment

Not much to report. The Furies, Assault Squads, Destroyer Squads, and Strike Captain are all in deep strike. The flying bases indicate the flying machines. I knock them over too often.

Turn 1

Turn one involved a lot of shooting. I gave the Word Bearers the first turn. I didn’t think there was actually going to be a game. I thought the defenders would get wiped off the table right away. The Strike fighter gets solid hits all game long on the Raven Guard heavy units.

Turn 2

More shooting; a Javelin was destroyed, and a couple wounds to a Contemptor from the Rapier battery. Cover saves doing work here.

Turn 3

The Ravenguard strike. The entire deep strike force hit hard. Many casualties. The despoilers on the bottom left were destroyed, as was the contemptor. The Dark Furies did not miss a hit or a wound, which was ridiculous. Then, the Contempor missed most of the saves. It, of course, took down many furies with it. Enormous casualties on the Ravenguard.

Turn 4

I thought the bearers would pull it off at this point. Multiple Javelins down, the terminators were unkillable. Then, the Rapier destroyed the Mhara Gal, allowing free reign to kill the Predator.

Turn 5

The Raven’s slayed the enemy warlord with the multiple assault squads and the command squad on the Word Bearer side of the river. The Ravenguard took the minor victory at 9 VPs to the Word Bearers 7 VPs. Honestly, if the Rapier does not take down the Mhara Gal. I think the Word Bearers pull this one off. The Mhara Gal would have destroyed another Ravenguard Unit and saved their Praetor, which gives +3 to the Bearers and -3 to the guard. Plus, I think the Predator tank lives.

Below is a glimpse at the next engagement, Stalingrad 3. The table is ready. I need to paint about 30 units.

Constantix II

The Word Bearers convinced Archmagos Delvere of Constantix II to swear fealty to the traitor legions in exchange for forbidden knowledge. Delvere was convinced this would allow his world to ascend to new heights. Perched in the vast Barge City of Leiminota, the Word Bearers enacted their plot. Several smaller Barge Cities resisted, and a call for help rose into the heavens. Primarch Covax and the Raven Guard legion answered the call.

With stunning ferocity, the speartip arrived in Malcaster’s outlying settlement. Malcaster’s purpose was to maintain a small bridge where acid flowed through. The Word Bearers fled, knowing their limited forces must consolidate and draw the Ravens into a protracted siege. The Ravenguard must keep the bridge intact at all costs to speed up the assault.

Praetor Corveran Shixx will lead the speartip. His primary objective is to secure the bridge and destroy as many Word Bearers as possible. He leads his unit of Cataphractii in a deadly dance.

The Word Bearers, led by their Praetor Toradik, the Sonorous Fiend, must preserve as many units as possible for the coming assault. His legion is small, and reinforcements are far away. Drawing the fast-striking Raven Guard into a prolonged siege will lead to great benefit.

Raven GuardWord Bearers
1Praetor Catphractii with Command
Covax
2401Legion Praetor with Command Squad
Sonorous
215
1Centurion, Master of Signals951Contemptor Dreadnought Talon225
2Contemptor Dreadnought 39010Destroyer Assault Squad205
5Mor Deythan Squad1501Mhara gal Dreadnought240
5Mor Deythan Squad with Storm Eagle Gunship3605Veteran Squad with Rhino150
10Terminator Cataphractii32510Veteran Squad225
10Assault Squad14510Despoiler Squad100
10Tactical Squad1005Recon Squad with Storm Eagle344
10Tactical Squad with Rhino13510Tactical Squad with Rhino145
10Tactical Squad with Rhino13510Tactical Squad with Rhino145
2Land Raider Proteus5053Outrider Squadron91
1Basilisk2003Skyhunter Squadron105
1Sicaran2201Land Raider Phobos250
1Basilisk185
3Predators360

Lessons Learned
Terminators and Dreadnoughts are a house. I am excited to play narratively and thematically and add those units to the game. For example, most of the Raven Guard Terminators were destroyed in this assault. There will not be more available until an apothecary can make them.

The punishment for moving heavy weapons is severe. More terrain across the main field would have impacted how I used the tanks. There was no line of sight-blocking terrain across the battle, so the tanks and dreadnoughts just sat and shot at things with very little movement or strategy.

I mis-deployed the Word Bearers infantry. Instead of the flank away from the river, all three units should have deployed near the river to clog the bridgehead.

Rules, rules, rules—there are many rules for the game. It was hard to keep track of them during solo play. I think I could do better once I learned to shoot and keep track.

Smaller games. 3500 was too many points for a 6×4 table like this. 2000 Would have been better. We are at 1250 for the Word Bearers for the next engagement and 2500 for Ravenguard.

The Actual Game

I actually deployed the units twice. I played one round deploying as the scenario said; the Ravenguards were completely wiped off the table. Instead, we selected to deploy 30k style with all units, not in a deep strike on the field. This was my first time using the Horus Heresy rules, so I kept everything as simple as possible. There were no flank attacks.

After the first turn for Ravenguard, very few units were destroyed. I didn’t anticipate the impact that moving heavy weapons would have. Reducing all hits to only on 6’s is a challenge to overcome.

The Word Bearers responded with a general push up the field. I wanted the Rhinos to get in the flank and do some damage. I was still far too unfamiliar with the rules. No model in all 30 tactical squads could dent a land raider. I also learned from my actions with the Ravenguard and kept all the heavy weapons as stationary as possible to maximize shooting.

Round two for the Ravenguard saw something interesting happen. The Sicaran fired on the Land Raider; however, when firing back, the Land Raider scored 3 total hits, once glancing and two penetrating. The penetrating hits did double damage, destroying the Sicaran. A great roll from the raider. However, the gunship single-handedly destroyed the veterans for the Word Bearers. Looking at the image above, you can see them behind the building to the right of the bridge. If you look at the lower image, they are gone. Otherwise, it’s just more heavy weapons shooting and missing.

The Word Bearers focused fire on the terminators crossing the field. Only 3 made it to the Word Bearers lines.

The assault on the bridge is in full swing. You can see the rhino at the bottom of the bridge was pinned by something of the Word Bearers. I think the Dreadnought. A Mor Deythan death squad also made it across the river transported by the gunship.

The Word Bearers used their desolaters to try and push back the tactical marines. They were unsuccessful and lost combat. You can see that Predator and Landraider are now in flames for the word-bearers.

The assault marines finally made it into combat and destroyed the basilisk. The devastators holding the bridge were also destroyed. The Contemptor Dreadnought for the Word Bearers has now been tied up for two shooting phases with the Terminators. We rolled to see if the Desolators could make it in for the Word Bearers. They did, and I decided to call the game. There was just no firepower left for the Word Bearers, as all their units were either in combat or ineffective against the tanks.

I could have charged with the Ravenguard leader and done a challenge here just to try it out. I didn’t.

Units for further expansion

Units that exemplified themselves included all four dreadnoughts, the Ravenguard Tactical Marines that held the bridge, the assault marines that killed the basilisk, and the 30 Tactical marines from the Word Bearers who never entered the battle. Praetor Toradik also bravely charged the Terminators to try and dislodge them from the dreadnought.